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I am a boondocker who, along with my wife, built a bus conversion 13 years ago. I built all the tanks, fresh water (2), grey water, and black water, from a white food grade ABS plastic to specifically fit in available space. They were glued (and screwed) together using a glue I made from ABS shavings and acetone. Freshwater tanks are stacked, one under the frame and one directly above sitting on the frame, connected via a 1 1/2" line. About three years ago I 'blew up' my lower tank by filling with a higher volume hose than my vent could take. I repaired it with my glue, which just doesn't cut it.
Dealing with wet bays is no fun, and as it was worse this year, I decided to do something about it. I surfed the net and came across your website, and decided to e-mail you and question how you thought your product would work with my glue. Although skeptical, you're honest answer and suggestions convinced me to try your product.
I did this while dry camping on the desert with friends. With tank removed, I set up a work area in the shade. Cleaning the ABS was done by sanding all the seams with an air sander and 100 grit paper. A dremel tool was used to gouge out all seams by about 1/8". All the screws holding the top piece down were removed and small piece of ABS shaving was used to fill each hole.
(Tank in this picture is bottom up)
When all seams were cleaned, they were primed/cleaned with the PM cleaner and screening cut to fit all the seams.
My wife suggested I put the PM in a pour bottle so I would not have to leave the can open. Was an excellent idea and she provided me with a bottle made of plastic that would not be affected and had a squeeze pour spout.
Each gouged seam was filled with PM black and spread with a brush. A strip of screening was then laid on top and brushed into the PM and allowed to dry until the next day.
An additional coat was applied to each seam in a similar manner. The result is a nice smooth, very strong joint.
Now to turn the tank over and do the same to the top.
Tank was reinstalled the next day and filled with water. I didn't expect, nor do I expect any more problems with this tank. I am now preparing to do preventive maintenance by removing each of the other three tanks and redoing the seams with the PM.
I have confidence these tanks will never leak again.
J.L. Saskatchewan
Thank you for your wonderful product. We traveled from Florida to Washington state in late January this year. Along the trip our black water tank began to drip. We have a 1993 Jayco 5th wheel and with the age of the camper we have had to replace many parts and appliances, so to replace the tank was my first thought. But since we needed to live in our RV for about 6 to 8 months, we would have to be out of service for an extended period of time which would not be possible. I searched for a repair product and yours was the only one found. Camping World said there was no such repair product. The hardest thing about your product was cleaning the tank. It took us about 4 hours to clean and dry the tank (while in place under the camper) and I carefully followed the directions. The crack was in a "rib" on the underside of the tank where evidently it was thin in the original manufacture. The crack was deep in the rib and about 30" long. Since I bought a big kit, the mesh was perfect to completely cover the area. I repaired an area about 4" wide X 30" long. I applied 3 layers about 4 hours apart in 50 degree weather. To watch the chemical reaction was simply astounding. As a mechanical engineer, to see the rapid evaporation process, to smell the chemicals interacting with each other, to see the small frost buildup as the chemicals interact with the ambient temperature was simply a wonder to watch. The cleaner was the key to the adhesion of your product. The best part was your product applied extemely well upside down. I did not have to disconnect the plumbing to perform the repair. That is another savings in time and money. With this repair now complete, we have been able to enjoy our camper without any further leaking.
A.H. Florida
Great solution for a shattered car-top carrier
After a fair amount of online research, I bought a double kit of black Plasti-Mend to repair a shattered Thule 667ES Excursion ES Rooftop Cargo Box car-top carrier. This worked very well to repair several long cracks, a few short cracks, and two jagged holes near the rounded corners of the carrier, about 5 inches in diameter. Thule cartop carriers are made of ABS plastic (confirmed by Thule support).
Be sure to read all the directions, and to wear an organic vapor face mask when using the product. I bought a 3M R6211 Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly, Medium, which worked very well.
My wife damaged the Thule by driving into the garage, crushing it against the elevated door. She then damaged the Thule more, backing out of the garage, in a panic. When she saw the damage, she said "No way!" could it be repaired. It had so many cracks and holes that the top couldn't support itself; it just collapsed. It was so damaged that my first repairs required dangling the carrier upside down from my deck from ropes, so that gravity would help position the parts, and using packing tape to hold some of the seams in alignment.
My completed repair looks quite good. From a few feet away, most people wouldn't notice the extensive patching. The color matches exactly, though the finish lacks the 'grain' of the original carrier's ABS plastic. Once glance at the repairs, and my wife shared my confidence, because the Plasti-Mend truly bonds with/combines into the original product.
We have driven about 1700 freeway miles with the repaired carrier on the roof -- no problems!
There are lots of good tips in the Plasti-Mend documentation. Here are a few more.
- The product comes supplied with inexpensive paint brushes. Have paper towels, a rubber band, and a ziplock-type bag handy BEFORE you open the can for each coat.
- When you've finished a coat, clean the brush with the paper towels, then wedge the brush into a corner of the ziplock bag so as to minimize air exposure. Secure the bag tightly around the neck of the brush. Then place it into your freezer! This helps to preserve the brush for subsequent uses.
- I suggest you wear the organic vapor face mask until you've completed your clean-up after each coat.
- A wheelbarrow was an ideal holder for my cartop carrier during the repairs (once I had sufficiently restored the Thule's structural integrity). It cradled the carrier nicely. And importantly, you can easily wheel your project into a breezy, shady location while you work. Ventilation is important for your safety.
- Plan on applying several coats, if you've got big holes. I applied fiberglass mesh to both sides of my bigger holes, for reinforcement. These will disappear once you've applied the Plasti-Mend.
- For a smooth finish . . . rather than trying to 'work' the Plasti-Mend onto/into the repair area, simply apply a generous amount, and do so in the shade. Once it fully cures, it will be shiny and black.
- Plasti-Mend provides some fiberglass mesh to apply over the cracks. This is just finely-spaced fiberglass window/door screening, which cuts easily with any scissors. I needed about 10 sq. ft. additional screening to finish my big job, and a couple more brushes.
- While at the hardware store, you may want to pick up some thin, disposable latex or nitrile gloves for easier clean-up.
I'm a big fan of this product. I plan to purchase some white/clear-type Plasti-Mend if and when my refrigerator trays next need repair.
M.V. Wisconson